Days 12-14 of 184
03.11.2019 - 06.11.2019 23 °C
So - back to Mexico City! We arrived in a torrential thunderstorm, into the chaos of the busy Norte bus station. After figuring out how to get a taxi and with news of Georgia being delayed by a couple of hours, off we set to her flat. Then... fifteen minutes later we had moved around 300m from the station! In the end it took us an hour and a half to get to Georgia's flat. She actually caught us up and met us on the doorstep at the exact same time! Mexico City traffic is insane...!
By this point it was 11pm and G had to get up at 5.30am to start work, so we nipped to a taco bar across the road, wolfed down some tacos and a beer and quickly caught up. Then off to bed! The evening had been a success compared to last time in Mexico City - no arrests or ambulance visits... yet (note: I am just kidding, no more of those to come).
The next day we explored the areas of Roma and La Condesa. These areas are popular with ex pats and feel much more middle class and affluent than the rest of Mexico City with lots of nice shops, cafes, parks etc. We ate huaraches for lunch in Medellin market and later enjoyed a mezcal and kiwi ice cream (surprisingly nice). The day just involved a lot of wandering and exploring. Georgia met us after work and we went to a really cool Central/South American street food market. There were around ten different stalls and you could order different dishes from each.
Exploring Roma and La Condesa
The following day we decided to visit Teotihuacan. This turned out to be one of the current highlights of our trip, a really amazing day. G had linked us up with one of the drivers from her school, who also runs day trips as a personal business. Jorge was an absolute delight, from start to finish he was one of the most friendly and informative people we've met, answering questions about anything but also super passionate and knowledgeable about the history of Teotihuacan. I had developed a cold and lost my voice, so he may have thought I was a bit strange sounding. We spent 4-5 hours on the site. It was our first ruin visit and really blew us away. The site is really well preserved and the size of the pyramids were breathtaking - a pretty good view from the top of both the Sun and Moon pyramids too!
Pyramid of the Sun
We found this doggo snoozing at the very top - obviously a tiring climb!
Pyramid of the Moon
Jorge and I struggling up (well, maybe just me...) and then the view
Jorge dropped us off around 3pm (again experiencing the CDMX traffic!) and G met us around 5pm at her flat. That evening we explored her local area, Coyoacán. It had two peaceful squares surrounded by lots of trendy bars and restaurants. We had a few drinks in a bar that had trees growing through the middle of it! We then moved on to a restaurant where we had one of the best meals yet; we shared guacamole topped with chicharron (pork rind), cheese and squash flower quesadillas and a salted beef and chorizo tlayuda - sooo good!
Coyoacán at night
Our last day (this time for good!) in CDMX was spent looking around the downtown/historical centre - which we had somehow managed to avoid so far. We got our first experience of the metro (5 pesos for any journey - madness). We saw the ruins of the old town Tenochtitlan - amazing that there are semi-preserved ruins smack-bang in the middle of this huge city! Another surreal moment was going up to the bar at the top of the Torre Latinoamericana. 40 floors up, amazing view over the city (if a bit smoggy - CDMX has lots of pollution) and somehow we were the only people in there...! You wouldn't get that in London.
Later we walked up to the Chapultepec Castle with G. We arrived ten minutes before closing, so the guards let us in for free! This is a Spanish castle built on a tall hill in the middle of Chapultepec park. The views of the city were surprisingly great. Then... closing time and the guards ushered us out. We wandered back into La Condesa and ended up in a casual seafood restaurant, Mariscos Juan, recommended by another teacher at G's school. It looked a bit unassuming, but turned out to be an amazing meal. The waiters were probably the most friendly we've had yet and the food was delicious. We each got a hot shot of shrimp soup, then ordered 6 different seafood tostadas between us. Rachel was even brave enough to eat octopus!!
At that point we headed back to G's flat to pack. It even involved myself and G having the (dis)honour of giving Rach a quick haircut. Not sure I'll make it as a hairdresser, but we did the job..! We said our temporary goodbyes (thanks again G for being a great host!), hopped in a taxi, arrived back at Norte bus station (our second home, it feels) and got on board our first Mexican night bus. Oaxaca here we come!